The story behind its creation – a word from renowned perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena I arrived in New York in 1973 as a young perfumer. My first task was to work with an American colleague to create a fragrance for the Houbigant company. Houbigant wanted a classic ‘à la française’ perfume, and the name was to be announced at a later date. At that time, Houbigant was a famous perfume company with good distribution worldwide. The classics of the 70s were Calèche, Madame Rochas, Chanel No. 5, Arpège, Shalimar and L'Heure Bleue. These perfumes have survived for many years and defied the passage of time thanks to their strong character.
I have always preferred floral fragrances to oriental ones and flowers to the sensual notes of amber. I wanted to create a French classic for Houbigant. This archetype is based on three floral notes: rose, jasmine and lily of the valley. These are the well-known flowers used in the perfumes I just mentioned. Only the House of Guerlain was an exception. The fragrance was intended to represent perfect harmony, confident taste without exaggeration, and reflect the passion of the years before May 1968. To realise my dreams, I had to draw on all the experience I had acquired over the years.
I fulfilled a wish when I composed Essence Rare, and years later I met the Perris family during a conference on Houbigant. Houbigant was known as one of the great perfume houses of the 19th and 20th centuries. Guy de Maupassant praised the creations, and the special quality of the fragrances was also extolled by Rimmel and Pivert. Pivert himself said that he had an exceptional nose. It could smell a fox roaming through the forest. On the evening of the conference, I saw the legendary image of a classic fragrance that had never aged: Essence Rare. I told the Perris family that I stood behind this perfume, that it was my creation. Today, the fragrance has been recreated, not as it was – it was taken off the market – but exactly as I wanted it to be. The idea of being able to redevelop an existing perfume formula is a dream come true for me.
I know that the public doesn't like it when a recipe is changed. As a perfumer, I liked this possibility. It's like a writer revising his work. You don't think the same way or feel the same way your whole life. My experiences have allowed me to grow, and my sensitivity and skills have evolved. The perfume I am presenting to you today is a reimagining that retains the classic French style, but is clearer, more recognisable and more subtle than what inspired people in the past: the flowers, the woods, it is more than just a concept. I like the subtle traces of the past." Jean-Claude Ellena in September 2018.
Characteristics
A floral fragrance based on floral notes of rose, jasmine and lily of the valley.
Vanilla powder
The sweet part of vanilla, vanillin, has been removed here.
The fragrance
Mandarin, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, sandalwood, oak moss, ambergris, vanilla powder.
Houbigant – Collection Privée
These precious fragrances represent a fragrance collection with special, natural and high-quality ingredients in exceptionally high concentrations. A guarantee of exclusivity, prestige and elegance. A golden label and a matching ribbon adorn the bottle. The luxurious design is emphasised by the bell shape.
